Buying A New TV
Tips for Buying a New TV
Are you considering buying a new high-definition digital TV? Prices have come down in recent years and the TV pictures are brighter, clearer, sharper, and have more vibrant color and better contrast than ever. So what do you need to know to make sure you are getting high quality and not just buying older inventory? Finally, what should you watch for when you visit a store that sells TVs?
#1. New TVs Are “Digital.” Good news: if you have an old “analog” TV that uses an antenna, with your new digital TV you can get rid of your DTV digital-to-analog converter box. Just hook up the antenna cable directly to the back of the new TV. Or if you subscribe to cable service, simply attach the existing cable to your new digital set or to your cable box, and you are ready for a much-improved TV viewing experience. (There are some exceptions: see #11 and #12, below.)
#2. No Heavy Lifting. Digital TVs have flat screens, take up less space, and are relatively light. Smaller sets weigh 8-20 pounds, once out of the box. The middle-size sets generally do not weigh more than 30-42 pounds.
#3. Important: 720p vs. 1080p. The TV picture’s display format is described using terms like “720p” and “1080p.” While both are considered “high definition,” 1080p has significantly better picture clarity and sharpness of detail. (Example: compare the somewhat fuzzy pictures in newspapers vs. the sharp photos in magazines.) 720p sets are $50 to $150 less expensive, but if possible, choose 1080p. If the TV’s packaging states that the TV is “high definition” but does not give a specific format number, it probably is only 720p. If it simply says “1366x768 resolution,” it is a 720p set. Ask a clerk to show you where it clearly says 1080p. If the clerk cannot show you, make a note of the brand and model number of the TV, then research the TV and its resolution on-line. Unfortunately, some clerks may “assume” and tell you that the TV is 1080p when it is not. It’s better to avoid TVs with an “i” rather than “p” designation (such as “1080i”); an “i” or “interlaced” display is of lower quality
#4. 60 Hz vs. 120 Hz vs. 240 Hz. Hertz (Hz) means the rate at which the screen cycles or refreshes. Programs with fast-moving objects, such as in sports, can appear somewhat “jerky” on a 60 Hz set. Motion will be smoother at 120 Hz. However, on a smaller set, such as 19” to 22” diagonal screen sizes, 60 Hz may be adequate for watching the news or slower-action movies. If the TV packaging is unclear, the set probably is only 60 Hz. A TV with 120 Hz is preferable, especially on a 30” or larger TV. Most sets being manufactured now are 120 Hz; lower-end sets are 60 Hz. Higher-end sets have moved to 240 Hz and even 480 Hz, but in most viewing situations the difference between 240 and 120 Hz is not really discernible to the human eye.
#5. Budget Sensitive? A 32” set from a name brand – such as Sony, Panasonic, Toshiba, Samsung, Vizio, and so forth – with just 720p and only 60 Hz may be priced in the range of $289 to $399 in a discount store. Nonetheless, the TV pictures will still be appreciably better than those on an old analog TV. Budget permitting, instead purchase a set that is 1080p and 120 Hz. This will add $100 to $250, depending on screen size. (Note: all prices are approximate at the time of this writing; readers should comparison shop.)
#6. Prices Have Come Down. If you generally sit only 8-10+ feet from the TV, your viewing experience will be greatly enhanced with a set that has at least a 26” or 27” screen, preferably more. These TVs typically cost $259 to $349, although they probably will be only 60 Hz. Larger sets with 37” to 40” screens and 1080p – but with only 60 Hz – cost $459 to $579. Then check the price of the same screen sizes, but with 120 Hz instead. (If possible, go with 1080p rather than 720p.)
#7. A Step Up. 42” sets with 1080p and only 60 Hz can be found for as low as $499; with 120 Hz they are $569 and up. 46” or 47” sets run $689 or more. Larger sets are available, commonly 52”, 55”, and 60”. Prices have dropped substantially and the technology is constantly improving.
#8. LCD or Plasma? Plasma TV screens have traditionally provided a somewhat sharper picture. But LCD technology has come a long way. LCD screens now have excellent brightness and color. For rooms with several windows, select an LCD set because sunlight, glare, or reflections will interfere with plasma displays. If you have a relatively dark room, plasma is preferable due to somewhat better contrast and color.
#9. Edge-Lit LED LCD. A relatively recent addition to LCD-type sets is the “Edge-Lit LED” LCD feature, which allows manufacturers to produce thinner and lighter TV sets compared to non-edge-lit “full array” LCD sets. Some store clerks and viewers will say they see some more brightness at the four edges of theTV picture. This may add $100 to $125 to the price of a comparable LCD-only set. It would be better to spend the money first on getting 120 Hz and 1080p, rather than 60 Hz or 720p. (There are a number of types of LCD technologies; the most sophisticated is called “LCD full array with local dimming,” but this is unknown to most store clerks and for the majority of TV viewers it is not an important feature.)
#10. What about 3D? 3D sets are available, but exercise care due to the expense involved and the fact that 3D technology is evolving. For example, 3D glasses have changed substantially in a short period of time from “active” glasses (requiring cords from the glasses to the TV) to the newer “passive” 3D glasses (no cords involved). This is due to improved screen calibration and other technological changes. Top-quality sets currently are expensive: in the $1600-$2300 price range after rebates. This may or may not include two pairs of special (required) glasses, costing $75 to $100 each. In addition, not much 3D programming is currently available. This is likely to change over time. Also, newer 3D sets will move to 240 HZ, rather than 120 Hz. Suggestion: wait on 3D, as it is early to invest in this trend and eventually prices will come down further.
#11. Cable Boxes. If you subscribe to cable and are replacing an old analog set, call your cable provider. You likely will need a different “cable box” to get the full benefits from your new digital TV. (Note: a cable provider’s set-top box is entirely different from a DTV “converter box” that is used with an antenna and an old analog TV.)
#12. Remember: “High Def”. Your new digital set will be capable of receiving both regular digital and high-definition digital signals. Note: a regular “standard definition” station that you are used to watching may also be available on another cable channel in high definition. Golf tournaments, for example, are frequently broadcast simultaneously on both regular digital and high-definition digital channels. Consult your cable programming guide to find where a program is showing in high definition (this is usually at a higher channel number).
#13. Sound and Speakers. One change manufacturers began making in mid-2011 was to eliminate forward-facing speakers built into the sides or bottom edges of the TV. This has made for a somewhat smaller overall “profile” for the TV (the TV does not take up as much space or appear as large). But this trend has come at a small disadvantage because the speakers send the sound “backwards” to the wall behind the TV, and the sound then bounces forward towards the viewer. This can result in a slightly muffled effect, particularly if there are curtains, drapes, blinds, or other surfaces that are not hard and flat directly behind the TV.
#14. Fixing Sound Issues. For those who want better sound (particularly with the large sets), there are several basic options. The first is to connect external speakers to the TV, using the RCA jacks in the back of most digital TVs. For even better sound effects, purchase a “sound bar” (about 24”-30” long and 4” high) which typically is placed just below and in front of the screen, and attaches to the audio outputs of the TV. The simplest sound bars cost $90 to $100; upgraded versions that also include a “sub-woofer” for better bass cost $180 to $200. Finally, there are full home-theatre sound systems that run $250 to $500 or more.
#15. Taking the TV Home. Digital TVs are relatively simple to set up: they are “plug and play” if no other speakers or other devices are to be connected. If you plan to bring the TV home yourself, don’t let it bounce in the trunk of the vehicle; place some type of padding beneath the packaging. Also make sure the TV is secure and braced from tipping or sliding forward via tie-downs or a seat belt. “Safety first” is key.
#16, Delivery and Set-up. For a larger TV especially, check if the store offers delivery, set-up, and hooking up at least one component (such as a DVD or VHS player). The store may be willing to negotiate its standard price, typically $50 to $100. Be sure to clarify exactly what will be included.
#17. Some Final Tips.
?Ask if any new cables will be needed, and what the cost will be. A knowledgeable store clerk can help. Don’t automatically buy a $40 to $80 “HDMI” cable unless you first find out how to connect it and you know that your cable box also has the correct connections (call the cable provider). On larger sets, perhaps have the high-picture-quality HDMI cable hooked up as part of the delivery and install price.
?Keep the original packaging, if feasible, for at least several weeks in case you need to return the set. Learn what the store’s policy is on short-term returns and what store and manufacturer warranties are provided.
?Final tip: Some credit card companies will actually double the length of the manufacturer’s original warranty, at no additional cost, when you make purchases on their card. Call the customer service number on the back of your card to see if this applies and what the conditions are; then decide if you want to use that particular credit card to buy a consumer product such as a TV. Just be sure to keep the original sales receipt and a copy of the original manufacturer’s warranty, in case you ever have to make a claim through your credit card company.
November 21, 2011
Questions? We Have Answers.
If you have any questions about the information in this article, call the Help Line (703-324-5902), a service of Fairfax County’s Department of Cable and Consumer Services – Communications Policy and Regulation Division.
11/21/11


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