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If you live in a neighborhood or condominium association, you
and your community are probably responsible for managing and
maintaining lands owned by your association. This open space
may vary in size from a few acres surrounding a stream to several
hundred acres of woodlands. It may contain facilities such as
playgrounds, swimming pools, and trails. Structures such as
stormwater detention ponds may also be your community’s
responsibility. Most likely these lands were initially funded,
developed, and maintained by your association’s builder
or developer, and your organization took responsibility for
the care of your common lands, including maintenance and liability,
once your community was built.
The common lands and open spaces of today are the parklands
of tomorrow. They serve as nearby places to walk your dog, hit
a ball, enjoy the woods, play a game of tennis, or go for a
run. When you steward these resources in an environmentally
friendly and fiscally responsible manner, they will reward you
and your neighbors.
Start your evaluation by inventorying your common land’s
resources and its trouble spots. Your woodlands are a resource.
Can their diversity be enhanced to provide food and housing
for more creatures? Are invasive plants creeping in? Your streams
are a resource. Are their banks eroding? Do they flood? How
frequently and what gets wet when they flood? What is the condition
of your playground, your pool, your tennis court? The process
to assess your community’s resources is very similar to
the process you use to assess your own land. Follow the process
outlined in the chapter on LANDSCAPING
AND GARDENING.
Develop a management plan incorporating conservation actions.
Make sure that your plan recognizes your community’s particular
needs and the physical limitations of your common lands. If
much of your common lands are in the flood plain, they are best
left in their natural state. This doesn’t imply you can’t
visit and enjoy them. Think about incorporating a walking trail,
perhaps with interpretive signs and nesting boxes for birds
in adjacent trees. Maybe some of the area is periodically mowed
and is used for community picnics or kite flying. Work with
the features of your site, and trouble spots may be turned into
community assets.
Stormwater ponds present another challenge. These ponds are
designed to hold water following storms, slowly releasing the
water into a stream or drainageway. A knowledgeable person should
regularly inspect stormwater ponds to ensure they remain structurally
sound. These structures must be maintained as they were designed.
Changing their shape, or planting trees on their banks if they
have none, may appeal aesthetically but will reduce their usefulness
as stormwater storage ponds. It is especially important to keep
the dams free of trees and shrubs. An innovative use of wet
or dry ponds is to incorporate wetland plants into their design.
Stormwater wetlands provide a rich habitat for wildlife and
remove pollutants as a water quality benefit.
Regular maintenance is needed to keep common lands healthy
and usable.
Removal of Nuisance Plants: All areas should be kept
free of noxious weeds or other invasive, exotic plants. For
example, kudzu, english ivy, honeysuckle, and wisteria have
taken over much of the undeveloped woodlands in Virginia.
Planting: Plant native trees and shrubs. They are better
adapted to your soil types and microclimates. Adding plants
with attractive flowers or fruits can enhance the visual appeal
and attract a wider variety of wildlife. Many plants are valued
for stabilizing eroded soils and providing nesting areas and
food sources for wildlife.
Routine Maintenance: Regular maintenance activities
such as mowing may be best accomplished by paid or volunteer
labor. Beyond normal maintenance needs, consult a professional.
Periodic cleanups, pruning, or fertilizing can be done with
volunteers if knowledgeable supervision is provided. It is important
to remove trash and debris from stream beds and areas commonly
filled with wind-blown materials.
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Rain gardens is a term for a developing alternative system
to curbs, gutters, and storm sewers that traditionally handle
rain and stormwater. Instead of pipes and concrete, special
kinds of plants, soils, and mulches are combined in low-lying
areas throughout a development. The combination of plants, soil,
and mulch works as a filter for the first stormwater washing
off your driveway, road, and roof. As this is usually the dirtiest
or most polluted water, filtering it through the plants, soil,
and mulch helps to clean the runoff by removing the pollutants
through the natural processes of plants, microbes, and chemical
reactions in the soil.
Rain gardens are constructed in shallow basins and are surrounded
by a planted buffer strip to reduce the velocity of the runoff
and serve as an additional filter. The size of the garden depends
on the amount of water you expect. The ponding area should be
no deeper than 6 inches above the layers of sand, soil and mulch
to prevent water from stagnating.
Plants selected for a Virginia rain garden must tolerate both
wet and dry feet. During the summer, the rate of evapotranspiration
exceeds the amount of precipitation.
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Streams are a visual and natural resource. Stream valleys have
been preserved in many residential neighborhoods for recreation
and open space, and these areas add a great deal to the attractiveness
of neighborhoods. However, in urban and suburban neighborhoods,
streams are experiencing slight to severe erosion. In some cases,
the entire stream valley is in danger of being greatly changed.
Plants native to stream valleys are referred to as riparian
vegetation. This vegetation helps to regulate water temperatures
by providing shade, maintaining a healthy environment for aquatic
life. The vegetation’s root systems stabilize banks and
provide habitat for fish. Plant material that falls into the
stream provides a much needed food source for many species of
smaller aquatic animals.
Streams also provide habitat for a diversity of wildlife. Many
plants, birds, mammals, amphibians, and reptiles thrive in the
close proximity of water. A continuous band of vegetation along
a stream provides a safe pathway for wildlife.
Nutrients and sediment entering streams from stormwater runoff
and erosion can create severe problems for aquatic life. Nitrogen
and phosphorus from chemical fertilizers applied to lawns, gardens,
and landscape plantings often pollute runoff. Sediment carried
from construction sites, freshly tilled gardens, or bare slopes
muddies the water, reducing water quality and a stream’s
value for habitat. Riparian vegetation filters runoff from neighboring
lawns and reduces the amount of nutrients and sediment that
reach the stream.
Riparian landscapes are also great places for people to spend
time. Fishing, canoeing, hiking, and bird watching are easily
incorporated into riparian zones. Opportunities to study in
an “outdoor classroom” can be incorporated into programs
at nearby schools for children of all ages.
Some streambank erosion is a natural process, as streams are
a constantly changing environment. Vegetation grows, dies, and
falls. Floods and sudden storms cause the stream to overflow
its banks. Heavy storm flow scours the stream sides and bottom.
In urban and suburban areas, erosion is exacerbated by changes
in land use and growth. As your community changes and becomes
developed, more rainfall flows directly into the stream at greater
speeds, eroding stream bottoms and banks.
How Can You Stabilize Your Riparian Areas and Restore Your
Stream? Stop mowing and cutting vegetation down within 30
feet of your stream. Vegetation helps to hold the bank in place
and slow the flow of water into the stream. Anything homeowners
can do to reduce runoff from their own properties will help,
too. If your yard is well drained, direct the water from your
downspouts and paved areas to a grassy spot. The grass will
slow down the water, giving time for the soil to absorb it.
It may also save you some watering!
Your stream is bigger than your immediate neighborhood. Any
long-term efforts must look at the needs of the entire stream
valley and watershed and involve the cooperation of many groups
and individuals. Stormwater can be held back in stormwater management
ponds within subdivisions or shopping centers and released slowly
into the stream, reducing both the quantity and velocity of
the flow. Or it can be filtered by rain gardens. The stream
channel can be lined with plants, erosion mats, or rocks.
Use Living Plants for Streambank Stabilization: There
are new techniques for bank stabilization that won’t destroy
the character of your stream. These approaches use a variety
of materials, plants, and techniques to create a natural-looking
stream that will support aquatic life. Fresh branches are rolled
together into bundles and placed in trenches along the stream’s
slope. Staked in place, water-loving cuttings will quickly sprout
roots and take hold of the bank. The roots create a living mat
to hold the soil in place. The plant’s leaves and stems
also slow down the stream’s flow across the land and provide
a canopy to break the fall of the raindrops. Erosion control
mats, fabrics, and blankets are often used on slopes and streambanks
instead of rock or concrete. Seeds are scattered over the hand-staked
mats, germinating and growing to provide habitat for wildlife
and stabilizing the earth. Even the old-fashioned approach of
using rock gabions and walls can be enhanced by encouraging
live cuttings to root in the soil behind the stone.
In some situations, living plants will not be able to solve
your problem. The stream may be flowing at too great a velocity
for plants to have a chance to get established. Baskets of stone,
referred to as gabions, or large pieces of rock, referred to
as rip rap, are commonly used for streambank stabilization.
These techniques will immediately stop erosion and may also
slow the speed of the water, protecting downstream areas from
severe erosion. Be wary of proposals to channelize your stream.
It is a technique that is often proposed to move water out of
an area quickly during a heavy rainstorm. While doing that well,
it will also reduce a stream’s habitat value and appearance
and may exacerbate problems downstream. Consult a professional
if your problem warrants this type of solution.
Annual Cleanup Days: At least once a year, host a major
cleanup for your stream and its valley. Remove trash and problematic
invasive plants.
Monitoring Water Quality: Testing the water in your
stream is a good way to note any improvements resulting from
a restoration project. The general health of a stream can be
determined by examining the aquatic insect species in the stream.
The healthier a stream, the more diverse the insect species.
Simple chemical tests can help identify the reasons for water
quality problems. This information is important in determining
the sources of pollutants. Your local Soil and Water Conservation
District can provide information about how to become a water
quality monitor.
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Building and maintaining a large pond requires some commitment
on your part. Beyond serving as a trigger for a sentimental
memory of leisurely summer afternoons spent fishing or swimming,
ponds fill many pragmatic needs. Stormwater storage, water for
overwintering wildlife, water for agricultural irrigation, recreation,
and home for many water loving plants and animals are all functions
of ponds. Before you start digging or building, check to see
what permits may be required for pond construction, and be sure
that you are aware of the potential liability issues related
to the community and state laws.
Ponds come in two basic styles. One is made by building a dam
across a stream, and the other is dug into the ground. Your
choice between the two will be influenced by the shape of your
land, soil type, water source, and what is downstream. If you
choose to build a pond with a dam, plan to keep a permanent
cover of grasses on the dam to stabilize the soils and prevent
erosion. Experts recommend against planting trees on earthen
dams, and your local jurisdiction may not allow it. Check with
them before planting.
Your pond must be deep enough to maintain a balance between
the water coming into your pond and the water leaving your pond
by seepage or evaporation. Usually, a Virginia pond should be
6 to 7 feet deep with the most shallow areas of your pond at
least 2 feet deep.
Unless the pond is to be used specifically as an agricultural
“best management practice,” avoid building a pond
in an area where drainage from agricultural operations might
pollute your pond. Too many nutrients from over-fertilized lawns,
agricultural sites, or poorly managed animal waste commonly
cause eutrophication in ponds, leading to a growth of algae,
weeds, and other aquatic vegetation that may wipe out other
aquatic organisms, including fish.
Muddy Ponds: Muddy ponds may be the result of erosion
from lands upstream. You must solve this problem because soil
particles in the water will reduce light and affect the growth
of aquatic vegetation and microorganisms. To reduce the problem,
maintain adequate groundcover over the areas being eroded. Fence
your livestock to keep them out of the pond. Their hooves and
feet will destroy grass and plants along the water’s edge,
further contributing to the potential for soil erosion. Bottom-dwelling
fish such as carp or catfish may also contribute to the pond’s
muddy appearance. If suspended particles persist, powdered agricultural
gypsum scattered evenly on the water’s surface at a rate
of 500 pounds per surface acre should clear up a pond in one
to four weeks.
Dredging: Even if you do everything right, the nature
of a pond’s life cycle is to fill up with sediment, becoming
more marsh-like and eventually becoming a woodland. You must
break the natural cycle to keep your pond a pond. Dredging can
range in cost from $6 to $25 per cubic yard of spoil, depending
on the price of labor at a specific location, the accessibility
to the pond site, and the proximity of a site to dispose of
the dredged material or spoil. Because much of the costs related
to dredging are the costs of hauling the spoil away, dredging
expenses can be reduced by using a backhoe to scoop out sediment
from the pond’s edge and letting it dry, becoming more
lightweight before it is trucked away.
Stocking: Stock your pond with healthy fish from a reputable
hatchery. Start with a mix of 100 largemouth bass and 500 bluegill
(or 300/200 bluegill to redear sunfish) per acre. Stock bass
in late spring to early summer and the bluegill in late summer
to early fall. Having the bass present in the pond before bluegill
begin to spawn is important. For angling diversity, add 50 catfish
per acre if desired.
Do not dump fish into the pond! Fish must be acclimatized to
your pond’s water conditions. Slowly mix pond water in
the containers from the hatchery, and then place the container
into the pond allowing the fish to swim out on their own. A
temperature difference of about five degrees and chemical differences
in the water can kill the fish.
Diverting Polluted Surface Runoff: Common sense will
tell you to keep polluted water out of your pond. If runoff
may be carrying sediments or toxic chemicals, construct a diversion
ditch around your pond.
Inspection and Repair: Inspect your pond on a regular
basis. Fill in gullies, plant bare areas, and replace rip rap
where needed. If you have a dam, examine it. Look for seepage,
erosion, or other signs of weakness. Consult a professional
for advice on repairs.
Aquatic Weeds/Algae Blooms: Nutrient-rich waters and
sunlight can bring you a bumper crop of aquatic plants. Too
much of this growth will shade and choke out other aquatic life.
When the vegetation dies, the fish die because the plant decomposition
process uses up the available oxygen. You may choose to manually
remove plants, employ biological controls, or turn to chemical
methods.
Pond owners can manually remove excessive vegetation by raking
out floating plants or using an aquatic weed harvester. This
is time consuming and labor intensive. Covering problem areas
with black plastic may also kill vegetation by preventing sunlight
from reaching the plants. If you can lower the pond’s water
levels during the winter months, you may be able to freeze out
the plants, killing growth buds and preventing regrowth in the
spring. Dredging is an alternative that will reduce the weed
problems by deepening the pond and reducing the light reaching
the bottom of the pond.
The safest and most effective control of excessive vegetation
is the use of biological controls. The downside is that it is
a slow method. Israeli carp or “triploid” sterile
grass carp are two fish that will eradicate the weeds. You must
have a permit to purchase carp in Virginia. Permit applications
are available from the Department of Game and Inland Fisheries.
Stocking rates for your pond are critical. Understocking may
have little impact while overstocking may deplete all the vegetation
in your pond. For weed control (30 to 40 percent coverage),
stock eight carp per weed-acre. For weed eradication, stock
16 carp per weed-acre. If the desired result is not achieved
after the second year, add more fish at half the stocking rate.
Check with the fish hatchery before stocking the carp if large
mouth bass are present in the pond. The hatchery can advise
you on the appropriate size of the carp to ensure the large
mouth bass don’t eat your new fingerlings for breakfast.
Chemical methods are often a “quick-fix” and may
require professional assistance. If chemicals are used, instructions
should be strictly followed. Don’t treat your pond all
at once or you are likely to kill all the fish with all the
plants. Treat one-third of your pond at a time. A partial treatment
will reduce the amount of oxygen depleted.
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Wetlands serve important functions in local ecosystems as transitions
between land and aquatic environments. In the past, these areas
were filled and drained to make way for new development. As
the value of wetlands has been recognized, steps have been taken
to protect remaining areas and to restore areas when opportunities
arise. Virginia has two basic types of wetlands — tidal
and nontidal. Tidal wetlands are found where daily fluctuations
in water levels occur. These can be saline or freshwater and
are in coastal areas or along tidal rivers. Nontidal wetlands
are beyond the influence of the tides and occur along rivers,
streams, ponds, or upland depressions. More than 75 percent
of Virginia’s one million acres of wetland are nontidal.
If your community borders the Rappahannock River below the fall
zone (where rivers change from nontidal to tidal), your land
is subject to the Chesapeake Bay Preservation Act.
There are many kinds of wetlands. Some appear wet as their
name implies, and others are distinguishable only in certain
months of the year. Common wetland types include bogs, swamps,
and marshes, but other types include places within upland forests.
In order to qualify as a wetland, it must have the following
three characteristics.
Hydric Soils: Wetlands have unique soils which have
developed by the frequent inundation of water. Hydric soils
can be identified by a soil scientist or by consulting the soil
survey.
Water Levels: Wetlands must have water on or near the
surface for part or all of the year (water-soaked land).
Plants: Living plants associated with wet soils should
occur in and around the wetland area.
Water Quality: Wetlands provide filtration of stormwater
runoff, preventing nutrients and sediments from entering streams
and rivers. Wetland plants take up nutrients during their growing
season and release them slowly during the fall and winter months.
As runoff passes through a wetland, sediments drop out, and
the speed and turbulence of the runoff is reduced.
Wildlife: Wetlands provide essential habitat for many
species of wildlife. Some reptiles and amphibians live in wetland
areas for their entire life cycle. Migrating waterfowl use these
areas for stop-over points and winter nesting grounds. Many
fish including important recreational and commercial species
rely on shallow water areas and wetlands.
Aesthetic Qualities: Wetlands have become valued as
recreational areas in many communities. They provide opportunities
for observing wildlife, fishing, boating, and hunting.
The following activities should be closely
monitored if a wetland is present. Many of the activities identified
in the list may be regulated and a permit required to proceed.
- Removing, excavating, or dredging material of any kind
- Altering existing drainage, sedimentation, water flow, or
flood retention characteristics
- Disturbing the water level by drainage, impoundment, or
other means
- Dumping or discharging material of any kind into the wetlandFilling
or grading material, altering existing topography
- Adding buildings or obstructions
- Destroying or removing plant material that would alter the
character of a wetland
- Significantly altering temperature and chemical or physical
characteristics of water sources
The federal government has established a permitting process
that restricts activities that might harm or destroy wetlands.
If you believe you may have a wetland on your property, find
out before you make any changes.
Federal laws protect wetlands, and four federal agencies make
wetland determinations. These agencies are:
- Corps of Engineers
- Environmental Protection Agency
- U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service
- USDA Natural Resources Conservation Service
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You can manage your pasture to provide grazing area during
much of the year. You’ll need to use a variety of grasses
— some that grow in cooler weather and some that thrive
in warmer weather.
Cool-Season Permanent Pastures: Cool-season perennial
grasses and legumes do most of their growing in the spring and
the fall and are the most commonly used pasture grasses in Virginia.
These grasses don’t need to be seeded every year. They
include Kentucky bluegrass, tall fescue (fungus-free varieties),
orchard grass, ladino clover, and white clover.
Summer Permanent Pastures: During the hot, dry months
of summer, cool-season grasses slow or stop growing and often
do not provide sufficient grazing. Bermudagrass can be used
to supplement grazing in summer months. Once the soil has warmed
in late spring or early summer, bermudagrass will grow and rapidly
produce excellent pasture. Varieties such as Tifton 44 and Midland
are cold-hardy and adapted to most conditions throughout Virginia.
Summer Annual Pastures: If your pasture conditions are
extreme, an annual summer crop may need to be seeded for forage.
Dwarf pearl millet can provide a rapid-growing, high-yielding,
high-quality, and drought-resistant source of forage during
a hot and dry summer. This crop will grow to a height of 4 feet
and make strong regrowth following grazing. Frost will kill
the plant, so seeding will need to be done each spring.
Winter Annual Pastures: Small grains like rye can provide
grazing in late fall, early winter, and early spring. Barley
can also be planted for forage in fall and early winter. Annual
ryegrass provides forage during these months as well. Use these
crops as a supplement to your established pasture.
Weed Control: Proper pasture management is the best
practice for controlling weeds. Weeds lower the feed value of
a pasture and compete with desirable plants for water, light,
and nutrients. Horses rarely graze evenly throughout a pasture;
instead they pick and choose. This habit results in a pasture
with grasses maturing at different times. Once a grass matures,
its appeal is reduced. Also, pasture weeds will bloom at different
times, making control of them difficult. Additional weed seeds
will fall to the ground, and the cycle will be repeated. To
combat this problem, regularly clip your pasture at a height
of at least 3 to 4 inches and drag, once in spring, and again
in late summer. You may need to adjust your clipping schedule
based on weather and grazing patterns. If chemicals are needed,
selective broadleaf herbicides are available.
How Much Pasture Does One Horse Need? The Natural Resources
Conservation Service recommends a minimum land area per horse
of 2 1/2 acres of first-class pasture. You can lower the needed
pasture acreage for grazing if you supply additional feed. However,
your horse still needs room to roam and exercise. A horse enclosed
in a small pasture will eat the grass down to its roots and
will trample the grass into the ground. Keep your horses out
of poorly drained pastures during wet periods. Their hooves
leave holes in the turf that fill with water, providing a perfect
place for poisonous weeds, such as water hemlock, to thrive.
Fence your horses out of streams unless you have a hardened
crossing. Their hooves will damage the stream bank, leading
to erosion and siltation of the stream.
Foraging Schedules and Grazing Systems: You can get
more use of your pasture if you establish a grazing system.
Divide your pasture into two to four separate pastures, and
move your animals from one pasture to another once the grasses
have been grazed to a height of 2 1/2 to 3 inches. This gives
the grasses time to recover. You can also graze other kinds
of animals who might find that a plant unfavorable to a horse
is a delicacy for them. This shared pasture will allow grasses
to recover and better regulate the height of grasses and clover.
A watering trough constructed as a part of the fence can serve
several pastures at the same time. Keep your salt blocks off
the ground and away from the water trough. Entice your animal
to use all parts of the pasture by separating the water and
salt from the shady areas. Fence your shade trees to keep the
horses from chewing the trees’ bark and trampling their
roots.
Don’t allow pregnant mares to feed on tall fescue during
their last three months of pregnancy. They may abort, have trouble
foaling, or have trouble with milk production.
A paddock is an important part of an overall grazing system.
The paddock is a good place to exercise your horse during bad
weather or if your pasture needs to recover. The paddock should
be well-drained and level. Nothing is likely to grow, so don’t
be disappointed if grass or trees don’t survive. Because
nothing is likely to grow, construct a diversion structure on
the uphill side of your paddock to combat erosion (see Soil
and Drainage).
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If you graze animals, you have animal waste. Disposing of it
improperly may contaminate your streams, pollute your well,
or waste a valuable fertilizer. Your local Soil and Water Conservation
District, Virginia Cooperative Extension, or the Department
of Conservation and Recreation can help you develop a manure
management plan. These plans, usually created for areas of 1
to 5 acres, help you balance your land’s capabilities and
your animals’ needs.
Store manure and bedding in a covered area away from the animals
and from any streams or drainageways. This material makes a
good fertilizer and soil conditioner for a garden or a pasture
if it has been well-composted. If you are too eager and apply
the material before it has fully composted, your garden or pasture
is likely to grow many new weeds. The composting process breaks
the parasite cycle and reduces the viability of the weed seeds.
After you have mowed your pasture, spread manure on it using
a chain or harrow. Reseed bare patches and thin stands of grass
in the fall or spring. Never spread manure on the frozen ground,
right before a rainstorm, or directly into a waterway.
Soil tests should be taken every 2 to 3 years. This will determine
your needs for fertilizing and liming. A 50- to 100-foot-wide
strip of trees, shrubs, and grasses should be left undisturbed
between pasture areas and drainageways or streams. Plants stabilize
the soil and function as filters for runoff, reducing nutrient
and sediment concentrations.
** Local jurisdictions may limit the grazing of large animals.
Check regulations before stocking animals on your property.
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Waterfront properties provide access to and views of a valuable
resource. Good stewardship of these areas is critical for preserving
the character of the stream, river, lake, or bay.
Development or construction activities along a waterfront affect
water and habitat quality. Disturbing soils, vegetation, topography,
and hydrology causes temporary and sometimes permanent changes
that can reduce the value of a water body and its adjacent properties.
Removing Vegetation: Destruction of vegetation, especially
native vegetation, may reduce the natural cleaning processes
protecting the water body. Plants along the waterfront slow
and filter stormwater runoff from pollutant particles and sediment.
Removing habitat may also disturb sanctuaries for wildlife.
Conserve existing trees and shrubs, and save “snag”
trees (dead or dying trees) for feeding birds such as woodpeckers.
Planting: Planting will enhance your waterfront property.
Plants may be used for soil and bank stabilization and to improve
your property’s appearance. Remember, there are two views
— one out towards the water, and one from the water looking
at the shore. Planting new trees, shrubs, wildflowers, and grasses
will enhance existing scenic views and screen unattractive views.
You can encourage new types of animals and birds to visit,
feed, and nest when you add carefully selected trees and shrubs
to the existing planting. A list of plants that are attractive
to wildlife is given in the plant table on page 68. Be careful
in arranging the new plantings if you hope to encourage wildlife.
Plant in groups rather than in rows. Groves of trees provide
cover and a place to nest. The spaces between the groves, left
unmown, provide open areas for hunting and foraging.
As more and more waterfront homeowners enjoy boating, water-skiing,
swimming, and fishing in the Rappahannock River and its tributaries,
the potential for water pollution increases. One preventable
source of pollution is the overboard dumping of raw sewage from
recreational boats.
It is illegal to dump any material or waste in lakes, rivers,
sounds, or bays within three miles of shore. Sheltered or shallow
locations near areas with a large number of boats are particularly
vulnerable to raw sewage pollution. These sites are not flushed
well by the current of tidal changes, and the bacteria, chemicals,
and nutrients from human waste can overload the water’s
ability to clean. These contaminants affect fish, aquatic plants,
and other animal life. No one wants to swim or boat in or eat
fish from tainted water.
Where Can You Safely Dispose of Waste? Use a garbage
can on your boat, and remind your guests not to throw anything,
including trash, overboard. Use cleaning chemicals sparingly
and carefully, and use sewage dump stations or pumpout facilities
at marinas. Boat sewage can be disposed of for a nominal fee
at marinas displaying a yellow placard with “Sewage Dump
Station” printed in red. Your local city or county health
department or the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service can direct
you to marinas with public disposal facilities.
New construction is likely to require additional permission.
Become aware of local, state, and federal policies before beginning
a new project. This could protect you from incurring fines or
penalties for disturbing sensitive areas, endangered species’
habitat, wetlands, or aquifer recharge zones.
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Properly managed forest areas provide enormous value and improve
the environment. The Virginia Department of Forestry can help
you establish a management plan. The department also sells tree
seedlings for a minimal fee.
Inventory and evaluate your woodlands. Identify your trouble
spots and areas that seem to be in good health.
From your list of trouble spots, identify priority areas for
protection and restoration. Work with the Virginia Department
of Forestry to create a suitable plant list for tree replacement
with recommendations for planting, care, and removal of trees.
Programmed maintenance is important for training and shaping
young trees and keeping established trees healthy. Regular maintenance
is a priority when caring for trees in urban areas or in wooded
areas where many people congregate or pass by. Trained maintenance
personnel and equipment may be needed in large communities.
Prune or cut down diseased, dying, or weak-limbed trees when
they pose a danger to people. These trees provide important
habitat for woodland creatures. If they do not present a safety
problem, leave them, and your woods will be richer for having
them.
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